Authors’ notes
18 August 2026 · 49°20′ S · Эль-Чальтен · Maksim · Patagonia Travel
Two mountains live in El Chaltén, and their characters differ. Fitz Roy is an extrovert: first on every postcard, visible straight from town, it gets all the looks and all the plans. Cerro Torre is an introvert: half its life hidden in clouds, it demands a separate day and may not show up at all the first time. But that is how it is with introverts: the most interesting is behind the closed door.
This is Laguna Torre at sunrise. The mountain, its reflection in the water, ice floes drifting across the mirror. One minute of calm - and the world turns upside down. Torre gives such views only to those who came to her themselves - and are in no hurry to leave.
In our routes Torre gets what she is owed: a separate day and a sunrise. Because a journey is made memorable not by ticks on a map but by the minutes when you cannot believe your eyes. From such minutes we will build your journey through Patagonia.
Patagonian Autumn →
Maksim · Patagonia Travel
13 August 2026 · 54°56′ S · остров Наварино · Maksim · Patagonia Travel
There are beautiful places. And there are quiet places - truly quiet, without a single person on the horizon. Of the second kind almost none are left on the planet.
Dientes de Navarino is the southernmost trek in the world. You walk out of Puerto Williams - and that is it: not a soul around. In four days I met two people, both trekkers. In places there is no trail, in places there is one but you cannot see it: you either climb the mountain in the literal sense or push through the scrub, and without a map there is nothing to do here. In twenty years of travel I had not seen places with no people at all. Even in the deepest wilderness someone turned up. Not here.
On the second day without people you begin to hear the silence. Then yourself. As if you crossed into another dimension and come back from it a little different. The last mountains before Antarctica know how to do that.
Navarino Island →
Maksim · Patagonia Travel
8 August 2026 · 50°28′ S · Перито-Морено · Maksim · Patagonia Travel
To start something new every day, everything has to be done on time. Sunrise does not reschedule. Either you came - or you were not there.
Perito Moreno taught me that in one morning. The light lives on the ice wall for exactly an hour, then leaves - and no plans, money or wishes will bring it back. I do not argue with nature’s timetable. I just get up earlier.
Up close the glacier is neither white nor smooth: a million sharp teeth to the horizon, blue in the cracks. From afar it seems frozen forever. In fact the glacier moves - two meters a day, every day, no weekends. Real movement does not look like fuss. Calm outside - movement inside.
Patagonian Autumn →
Maksim · Patagonia Travel